RecPro Low Profile RV Air Conditioner

13.5K BTUHeat pumpNon-ducted

Overview

This is where camper comfort becomes a roof, wiring, and power-source problem.

The RecPro/Houghton low-profile 13.5K non-ducted unit is a real RV rooftop air conditioner, not a small portable cooler. RecPro lists 13,500 BTU/H cooling, 12,000 BTU/H heat-pump heating, 115V/60Hz power, 1,550W cooling draw, 14A rated cooling current, 15.5A maximum current, and 40-70A startup inrush for a moment.

That can absolutely change hot-weather camping, especially in desert heat where shade and roof fans are not enough. But the install has to carry about 99 lb on the roof, seal around a 14 3/16 inch square opening, and leave the unit level enough to drain and operate correctly.

This belongs in a serious trailer or van build where comfort is worth the cut in the roof and the electrical system is designed around the load. If the plan is “maybe the battery will handle it,” the plan is not finished.

Best forNon-ducted RV, trailer, and camper builds with a flat-enough roof, dedicated AC power, and a real heat-load reason.

Not forMinimalist rigs, weak or curved roofs, casual 15A extension-cord hopes, marine use, or battery systems sized by optimism.

The AC can solve heat. It cannot solve an underbuilt roof, leaky seal, or undersized power source.

Where to Buy

RecPro Low Profile RV Air Conditioner

A serious 115V low-profile rooftop AC for non-ducted RV, trailer, and camper builds where cooling is worth the roof cut, power draw, and install work.

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Quick Read

Role

Roof AC

Best Fit

Non-ducted camper cooling with shore power, a properly sized generator, or a purpose-built inverter system

Why It Works

13.5K BTU cooling can make hot-weather sleeping possible when insulation, shade, and ventilation are not enough

Skip If

The roof cannot support 99 lb, the opening cannot be framed, or the power source cannot handle startup and running load

At a Glance

Cooling

13,500 BTU/H cooling, with 12,000 BTU/H heat-pump heating listed by RecPro.

Power

115V/60Hz, 1,550W cooling, 14A rated cooling current, and 15.5A maximum draw.

Startup

RecPro lists 40-70A startup inrush for 1-2 milliseconds; optional soft start reduces inrush.

Roof

Approx. 99 lb installed weight, 14 3/16 x 14 3/16 inch opening, and 1 inch minimum roof thickness.

Clearance

Manual calls for at least 4 inches around the rooftop unit and a roof angle under 5 degrees.

Heat Limit

Supplemental heat is not for below 30°F and should not be treated as the primary heater.

Planning The Roof Hole

The roof cut is the point of no casual return. Before a blade touches metal, map the interior ceiling, roof ribs, wiring, fan location, solar layout, rack clearance, and where the inside plenum will land. The best spot is not just where the AC fits outside; it is where the opening can be framed, the weight can be carried, the airflow is not blocked by cabinets, and the condensate path will not dump water somewhere dumb.

On a van roof, I would mark the opening from inside, drill small pilot holes at the corners, transfer the layout to the roof, tape the paint around the cut, and protect the interior from metal dust. A cutoff wheel on an angle grinder can make the cut cleanly, but it throws sparks, heat, and grit, so clear insulation and wiring first, wear eye/ear/hand protection, and keep the tool under control. After the panel drops, deburr the edge, treat bare metal with primer/paint, and dry-fit the frame before sealant gets involved.

Sealing The Opening

The roof needs to be flat enough, strong enough, clean, dry, and framed around the cutout so the clamping bolts do not crush the roof sandwich. The manual calls for wood boarding around the 14 3/16 inch opening, at least 3/4 inch thick, and says the roof should support the unit's 99 lb weight.

For the seal, surface prep matters as much as the product. Clean the roof, remove oil and dust, test-fit the mounting path, then lay a continuous Sikaflex bead where the roof mount needs to seal. Sikaflex 221 is a common polyurethane adhesive/sealant for metal, painted surfaces, ceramics, and plastics; use the exact Sika product and primer/prep sequence that matches the roof material. Do not smear sealant into bolt holes, and do not trap gaps under a ribbed or curved roof without a proper filler/frame.

Do the ducted/non-ducted check before buying. This page is for the non-ducted model, which is right for an open ceiling plenum, not an RV with existing duct runs that need a ducted unit. RecPro also notes that thick roofs over 2 3/4 inches need a thick-roof kit.

Power Reality

Shore Power

Treat it as a dedicated 115V load; weak cords, shared circuits, and low voltage are hard on compressors.

Generator

RecPro says minimum 2500W with dedicated 30A service, and recommends 3000W with dedicated 30A service.

Inverter

A battery inverter plan must handle running watts, startup inrush, cable current, fuse size, and realistic runtime.

Condensate

The manual says condensate drains onto the roof; roof pitch, seal quality, and water paths matter.

My Notes

I would not add this casually. AC is comfort, weight, roof structure, a scary roof cut, condensate, startup load, and power planning all at once.

Design the 115V side before buying the AC, especially generator, shore-power, inverter, breaker, and cable assumptions.
Plan the roof hole from both sides before cutting: ribs, wires, plenum clearance, roof rack, solar panels, and cabinet conflicts all matter.
If cutting a van roof with an angle grinder and cutoff wheel, protect the interior, control sparks, deburr the cut, and paint exposed metal before assembly.
Use a continuous Sikaflex seal on a clean, dry, prepared surface, then water-test the roof before the ceiling is closed up.
Do not count the heat pump as primary winter heat, and do not expect it to cover below-freezing camp nights.

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